New Routes in Wied Anġlu

[This blog post follows the publication of the official new route information by the MCC.]

Over the last few months, my friend Hendrik-Jan and I have been working on new routes in Wied Anġlu, the steep valley south-west of Għar San Brinkat, in Għargħur. The valley is home to a number of historical climbs, all in traditional style. Sadly, the only information on these routes is on out-of-print guidebooks. So between the lack of available information and the general trend towards sport climbing locally, this area hasn’t seen much climbing in recent years. Thankfully, the first of these problems was solved when I found copies (some new, some used) of the last three guidebooks. The other went away when I got into trad climbing over the past year. So after visiting the valley with Hendrik-Jan to redo the classics, and walking around to explore, it wasn’t too long before Hendrik-Jan starting thinking of the possibilities.

The new sector is a cove a few meters upstream from what is possibly the defining route of the area: Anġlu Crack. The new routes include ten trad routes in the lower to middle grades, and a couple of sport routes. The sector is intended as an ideal location to learn trad climbing. Most of the trad routes have ample options for protection, though in some cases this will require a range of gear. As in much of Malta, a recommended rack includes a selection of nuts, offset nuts, hexes, cams, and tricams. A threader and thin 60cm slings are also useful. You can download the topo, intended to be printed double-sided on A5 paper, below:

I would like to take this opportunity to thank Hendrik-Jan for his considerable efforts on this project, and his patience and encouragement with my climbing. Thanks are also due to the Malta Climbing Club, for providing the necessary materials and tools.

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